After reviewing the install videos made by fellow Uralista and friend: Darrell S., I was ready to install the clutch pack.
Link to videos:
Ural Clutch Install: Part 1 and Part 2
Note: He mentions using Blue Loctite, it's supposed to be Red Loctite, he just hasn't updated the video I guess.
The springs are in place, no need to use RTV sealant
or toilet paper around the spring base...just carefully seat the
springs and rotate till they hold in place by themselves.
First in on top of the springs, is the
Clutch Pressure plate.
It's got indentations in the back to support
the springs.
Using an old 650 Gearbox Input Shaft from the
Bural Rig, I make sure the two clutch plates'
splines are lined up with the Intermediate Plate
between them.
Make sure the raised portion of the clutch driven plates face towards the rear of the motorcycle!
Clutch Thrust Plate in position, two bolts
applying pressure to hold things in place.
The hardest part for me this time was making sure the intermediate clutch plate lined up even with the grooves in the flywheel. You have to make sure everything is level and square by using light taps with a flat tip screwdriver so that the plate's splines engage smoothly with the flywheel grooves.
Once that's ensured, it's just a matter of tightening down the two bolts in sequence till the thrust plate is almost flush with the flywheel. Then you apply the red loctite to the 4 screws for the remaining holes and put them in.
Once the 4 screws are snug, they'll hold the thrust plate down so you can remove the two installation bolts, put red loctite on the remaining two screws and install them:
Below picture shows the splines of the two clutch driven plates are lined up nicely and I managed to also line up the venting holes to hopefully improve heat dispersal while in operation.
That's it, now to wait for the arrival of the replacement Input Shaft for the gearbox. Once that's done, then it's just a matter of re-assembling the tug back together and see how things go.
7 comments:
Personally, I wouldn’t use Red Loctite for anything that may need to be removed in the future. You have to apply heat to break the bond.
Looks nice to have new clutch disks.
Yep, had to apply heat to remove the old screws but it beats them coming loose or having to ‘stake’ them like back in the old days.
Dom I'm going to miss your Ural antics and repairs, both are informational.
Is this your 1st clutch replacement, the others by dealers? next question motor in or out of the bike? Sooner or later I'm going to have to replace mine, had the parts for 3+ years anticipating.
Ural Antics Spat? Ok yeah, I was the example of what not to do with a Ural sometimes....
This is my third clutch replacement, others by Randy under warranty. Motor in. Easy job, but you have to remove FD, move swing arm back in order to remove things easier.
Ural antics. I like that...
I mean no disrespect, to know you (and the Ural) is to love you. You have done more miles, had more adventures and yes challenges than anyone I know and rival others I have heard of.
Look back brother you've taken us and you have had a hell of a ride.
I didn’t think you meant disrespect Spat....it’s all good, definitely a character building set of years with the Urals.
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