Showing posts with label Yagi Repairs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yagi Repairs. Show all posts

Thursday, January 14, 2021

Snow, delays, batteries and a sunset

Sunday, Jan 10

Went for a short drive with Mariko, to check out her 4WD in a more extended manner on what I hoped would be snow covered road.  The area I picked did have some snow on the roads, but not much, more muddy than anything else (which is also a good test I guess) as the weather had been warm the last few days.

Aside from a slight rattling noise when engaging the clutch before bleeding down the speed, no issues encountered.  The PO told me he'd heard some noise too, especially in Low Range but I guess we'll see if its something to worry about.


I dropped Mariko off at the mechanic's shop on Monday, the 11th.  They estimated at the time it would take perhaps 3 days.

Wednesday, Jan 13

I'm not known for patience so it probably won't surprise you that I was disappointed to be called and be told by the shop that the carburetor rebuild was delayed.  

Looks like they have to replace the e-choke component involved with the radiator ( the fluid temperature tells the choke to activate or shut down ).  Also, apparently the float has to be replaced.  The delay involves finding the right parts for this old carburetor model: Hitachi DFB306-832.  The parts are due in Jan 21, Thursday of next week but they'll call me if they arrive earlier.

On the positive side, its good they found these problems now and are working to fix them.  Hopefully, it'll mean a more reliable key component to the Samurai being a dependable vehicle.

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I'd been exercising both Scarlett, my 2014 Ural Patrol and Brigitta, my '87 Airhead Beemer the last few days.  They've not gotten ridden much since the last three months or so as I was away camping.  Scarlett gave me no issues the couple times I rode her around the area.

Brigitta, on the other hand gave me the dreaded clicking noise of a dead battery.  This is even though she started fine at home, and no issues all the way to the RV storage yard where I'd been doing some work on the URRV.  

Sighing heavily, I got the jumper cables from the URRV, hooked her up and she started right up and caused no issues all the way home.  I looked up on her maintenance records when I'd last changed out her battery and it was over 10 years ago!  Dang.  Just goes to show how little she'd been ridden in the last ten years!  So a replacement battery is ordered and on the way, a PowerStar PS-NH12-18, which is equivalent to a BMW 51814 which is suitable for R Bikes.

More battery issues, the small lithium battery on Yagi, my 2006 Yamaha TW200 failed completely same day.  The battery had been stuck on 14.1 volts for over a day, so I'd disconnected the charger and reconnected...not bothering to check the voltmeter readout.  

As I was checking Brigitta, I finally noticed the voltmeter showing weird readings, changing rapidly, and reporting only 6.4 volts with the multimeter!  It was toast.  

Luckily, I still have the Yuasa YB7C-A  battery that had been installed in 2016 and which I'd changed out proactively when I brought the TW home.  I ordered a replacement battery as they're not too expensive and it should be here Friday this week.

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Jan 12

We had us a pretty good sunset, with some nice clouds being lit up by the sun's rays once it had sank below the horizon:




Wrote this blog entry to keep my mind off the delays involving Mariko's carburetor, yesterday I washed part of the garage floor and mowed/mulched the large amount of fallen leaves that were in the back yard.

Sigh.


Sunday, September 20, 2020

Wyoming Boondocking - Day 24: Cloudy and Windy Day

 As forecasted, the weather dawned cloudy and would transform to pretty much solid overcast by 11 AM.

Sunrise was "meh" but it did light up the Haystack Buttes to the west somewhat:





On a happy note: Shithead Encroacher left the area this morning as I sat outside enjoying a cup of coffee.  Good Riddance!

Spent the morning doing my first MPC: Motorized Police Call.  No, I didn't call for some motorcops...police call is what the Army calls it when they have the troops "police up" or basically clean an area of trash/litter and so on.

I usually police up the area around a campsite I use, this time with the gray skies, I decided to ride Yagi to cover more area.  One of the sites, the littering arschl√∂cher had even left a big plastic bucket from which drywall mud had come in, I strapped it onto Yagi to be able to carry more crap as I found it.

I cruised up and down the nearby shorelines, several camping spots with fire rings and so on.  What are the littering arschl√∂cher thinking that dumping their trash inside the fire rings is good enough?

I would end up filling five bucketfulls, making trips to the dumpster at the boat ramp each time to empty the bucket for further collections.  

Around 11:30, the winds started to pick up and I made my fifth and last run....this time also hauling someone's discarded exhaust tubing.  I pulled it behind Yagi using some wire I'd found discarded.

The bucket's position

The exhaust tubing....at least I think that's what it was....

Some people are just such schweinhunde!

The winds turned pretty strong, cresting around the low 20 mph I think.  I stayed in the URRV the rest of the day, reading books and watching it rain sporadically and the temperature plummet from a high of 60F to 54F.  Sigh.  I've really lost all resistance to and willingness for riding in what feels like cold weather.

Oh, wanted to mention a fix I recently did to Yagi's leaking muffler joint where the exhaust pipe from the cylinder head connects to the muffler.  It had come to me with some sort of black rubbery sealant used to keep exhaust gases from leaking at this point.

When I'd re-assembled it months ago, I'd use muffler sealant (gray cement like consistency) and it had held up pretty good until about a week go.  Suddenly Yagi sounded more like a Harley Davidson motorcycle than a Honda.  Not good.

Being in the Wind River Canyon area, I'd no ready access to an Auto Parts store so I compressed the lips of the muffler tube to better contact the header pipe....still there was a tiny gap.  

What to do, what to do?  Then I had an idea.  I cut up a Red Bull aluminum can and used a strip of the metal to line the header pipe before inserting it into the muffler tube.  It was pretty tight and took some careful effort to get it seated.  Then I tightened down the clamp and it's been sealing pretty well I think.


At least, Yagi sounds normal now instead of like a Harley-Davidson wannabe!  It's not pretty but it'll do till I can do something a bit neater AND also use some muffler sealant which I purchased in Green River before arriving at the Flaming Gorge NRA.

The wind and rain seem to have done much to clear up the haze and smoke in the skies, tonight's sunset wasn't too shabby:




Friday, April 17, 2020

New Fork Boots for Yagi

I received replacement non-OEM rubber fork boots from procycle.com yesterday, finally removing any excuse remaining to do my first fork boot replacement.

After some research on the TW200 forum, some emails to confirm details with experienced mechanics, I was confident I could do the job.

This was the first instance of actually using the motorcycle lift I'd borrowed from a neighborhood friend:

Straps on both sides prevent side/forward movement and the jackstand
on the rear swing arm/axle nut prevent downward/rearward movement.

First was the removal of the front wheel, having loosened the axle nut before raising the motorcycle up into the air.  I disconnected the speedometer cable prior to removing the front wheel.

 Speedometer hub assembly, the cable already disconnected.

The front fender was next, I'd originally thought to leave it in place but was warned it would make things more difficult to align upon reassembly.  Sorry, no pics of the spacers.

 Top Hat spacer on right side of wheel hub.

I made careful note of the level of the fork sticking out of the top portion of the triple tree assembly.  I just had to ensure the existing marks lined up as shown below:

 Left Side

 Right Side

Yes, I am aware the manual says there should be 6 mm of the top of the fork showing, but it had been fine where it was the last few months of riding, done to increase travel clearance of the front wheel.

Once I loosed the appropriate bolts, I was able to simply twist and pull down the right fork easily enough and swapped out the worn/damaged fork boot with the new one:

Compare and contrast shot
The boots are Daystar 58 Series, $25 for two of them.

Re-assembly was the reverse of the order I removed things before.  Next time, I will remove the brake caliper assembly to make things easier to put the wheel back in place.  Re-inserting the speedometer cable into the speedometer hub was a little fiddly but finally got it done and reconnected.

The hardest part turned out to be lining the front wheel with the top hat and speedometer hub in place, and then getting everything to stay in place as the axle is inserted.  I lacked the third hand necessary, even after lowering the lift to minimize travel by the wheel to match the holes in the forks; so I had to ask Patrick to do the honors with the axle.

Oh, I also removed two of the plastic spacers on the front fender bracket to increase travel clearance by perhaps 1/4".  I just have to, as always, avoid muddy spots where thick mud tends to clog up underneath the front fender and eventually locking up the front wheel.

A view of the plastic spacers I'd installed shortly
after my first encounter with thick mud.

Before I put things away and lowered the motorcycle; I also replaced the rubber seal on the front valve cover atop the engine as it'd been seeping oil.  

No injuries, blood or too much cursing involved with this work.    I'd say it was a good task to get done.




Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Isolation Tasks

I've been home since April 6.

Colorado's governor has issued, as many other states have, "shelter in place" orders but it hasn't really impacted one's movement much.  I wonder if more draconian measures are in the offing.

In the meantime though, I've several items to get done/fixed.

Task 1: (completed)
My failed attempt to stretch the tongue of the Aluma 638 trailer, caused stresses for which I continue to pay for.  You might recall, I'd had it lengthened by two feet to give some turn clearance when I had Yagi, my 2006 Yamaha TW200, mounted on a rack at the front of the trailer's cargo area.

So, the extension was taken off the tongue and its back to original length.  This was last year.  After coming back from camping this year, I found the bed had cracked where stresses of loading the Ural sidecar rig showed up.  Not to mention, I somehow managed to lose the aluminum inner cover of the right side wheel well somewhere between home and my last camping spot in New Mexico!

I took the trailer to CMW Welding and they welded up the crack as shown below, did some repair on spot welds on a rib spanning the width of the trailer where they'd separated; and now there's no more unsettling cracking noise and dips when loading the rig!

Quite a big crack of the bed and side rail eh?

Damaged section now welded up as shown above, on both sides.
And no, I've no idea what happened to the metal panel which would
be normally hiding the inside view of the tire.

As long as he was welding, I had him also reinforce the left side
That's what the missing panel on the right looks like....sigh
Task 2: (Completed Apr 22)
The BMW R80 engine used by Fiona, my '99 Ural Patrol has been seeping oil from the pushrod tube seals for a while now.  I'd managed to "press in" the seals as a temporary fix but that's no longer doing the trick.  This makes for a messy engine as dust/dirt gets on the leaking engine oil and accumulates rapidly into an unsightly mess.

I'll be ordering the parts soon to replace the gaskets, o-rings and of course the rubber seals involved this coming week.  I'm debating, since I have to pull the heads, whether to also replace the piston rings or just the seals as Fiona seems to be running fine otherwise.  I'll be ordering parts 4,5 and 6 from below fiche drawing.

and part #4 the gasket that goes between cylinder and the below shown cylinder head.

In preparation, I also cleaned up the outside of the carburetors, removed the second spring I'd attached on the left hand carburetor's throttle plate lever now that I've figured out its an issue at the throttle grip side of things.  Should make it less of an effort to hold throttle while riding.

I borrowed a neighbor's motorcycle lift and did a test lift of Brigitta as I didn't want to separate Fiona from her sidecar just to test out the lift.  Took some trial and error but managed to not drop the motorcycle while learning to use the lift.  I'll be disconnecting Fiona from the sidecar to allow easy access to both sides of the engine.


The above pic shows the bike 12" or almost 30.5 cm, I could raise it 4 more inches to the max height of 16" or 40.6 cm but as you can see, it's high enough for a comfortable working position on the engine's cylinders or "jugs".  And to think, I'd been looking at a lift that would life the motorcycle to 30"!  I was nervous just going up 12"!

Straps and jack stands would be of course involved in actual repair work to ensure the motorcycle doesn't go anywhere while off the ground.

Task 3: (Completed)
Yagi, my 2006 Yamaha TW200, has been lightly seeping oil from the front valve cover.  I've seals ordered and hopefully arriving soon to remedy this.  Nothing major, just annoying.  Oh and I need to replace the fork seal covers.  The motorcycle lift will make this an easier task.


Task 4:
I've got to decided whether to replace the awning cover for the URRV's slideout or just make do without it.  There's something wrong with it causing it to fight the slideout being pushed out, like it's hanging up.  Since I removed the awning while boondocking at the Hot Well Dunes Rec Area, the slideout has operated smoothly.

Task 5: (completed on Predator Generator, not needed yet on Onan Generator)
I have to check hours but probably time to swap out the oil on both the HF Predator generator and the Onan 4KW onboard generator in the URRV.  Will also verify that it's not been 3000 miles since the last oil change on the URRV itself.

Task 6:  Completed May 22
All five shock absorbers on Fiona are leaking fluid and so the seals have to be replaced.  I've got one set of seals, awaiting four more from Russia and then it'll be time to do this task.  These are the "rebuildable" shocks from Russia, not the new style Sachs shocks from Germany which are apparently not rebuildable.

Wednesday, September 04, 2019

Fiona's High Idle issue is better now.....maybe

Got the parts I ordered for Fiona's carburetors last week, today.

Basically, I replaced the O-Rings for both the Idle and Main Jets, the return springs for the choke levers I added a new spring to the existing old one to ensure the lever closes fully when I close the choke.  Eventually I will have to take the carburetors completely apart to clean them out thoroughly I suspect.

Cleaned out some more gunk from the jet wells, to include surprisingly a bit of red gasket sealant material....

I adjusted both idle air mixture screws to 1 full turn out for base adjustment.

Finally, I replaced the rubber tubes which mate the carburetors to the respective cylinder heads.

She started right up as usual, with the choke on, I let it warm up for a couple of minutes while I geared up.  Turned off the choke before heading out and she seemed OK, there was no hanging idle in the short ride to the local store for camping supplies; but the idle was too high (around 1500 rpm) which was understandable since I had dinked with the throttle stop screws last week.

Rode her home the long way to get her engine up to 300 degrees or so and got the Harmonizer balancing gizmo hooked up.

I made sure the throttle stop screws weren't in play, then adjusted the idle air mixture screws inward till the idle was barely around 700 rpm.  I then bumped up the idle with the throttle stop screws till it was around 840-900 rpm and the Harmonizer reported balanced carbs.

Went out for another ride and the hanging high idle seems to have gone away!  The RPMs drop as expected when coming to a stop and hover around 1000 RPMs, sometimes a bit higher, sometimes a bit lower.

As I go up in gears, I don't hear the RPMs drop at all between gears but then again, not sure that's something to worry about for now.  I just seem to have a recollection that it should be a noticeable drop when one pulls in the clutch to change gears?

The only time the idle seemed to hang high was when I got her home but then I wiggled the throttle cables and it seemed to immediately drop down as desired.  Hmmmmm.

I added some 3-in-1 oil where the cables seat into the carburetor, perhaps they're sticking?

More riding and testing to follow, but things look OK for now on Fiona.  I'll be taking her camping tomorrow to Monte Vista, Colorado where a mini Ural Rally is scheduled for this weekend.  Not a big rally, just a gathering of Denver Metro area Uralisti, hopefully some newbies, a few of the core group of riders.

Update, September 6.  Turns out, while the o-rings and springs did need work, the throttle cables are sticking where they come of the throttle control assembly!  Every time I come to a stop and the idle isn't going down as expected, I just jiggle the cables where they connect to the handlebar control and voila, the RPMs drop!

Have looked at it, no moving parts really except for the chain used by the throttle grip to pull on the cables simultaneously.  Must research further, don't want to force things while I'm camping and break the throttle assembly mechanism somehow.  For now, I jiggle the cable when stopping.

Update, September 7:  More riding and I determined it was the cable that goes to the left carburetor that seems to "hang up" with the control housing, causing the hanging high RPMs.  During the riding today, I taped a small rock to the cable to weigh it down, no more hanging high RPMs when closing the throttle!  Eureka.

Saturday, August 31, 2019

Replacing Yagi's Turn/Lights/Horn switch assembly

I'd mentioned in a previous post how I thought a malfunctioning turn signal switch had caused the TW200's main fuse to blow.

The control assembly had also gotten progressively worse to the point the horn button didn't work anymore and it was hard to turn off the turn signals.

So I ordered a generic one from Amazon, manufactured by Kawell and less than $9!  It's about $90+ for one from Yamaha.

Image source: Amazon
Link to switch -Amazon Affiliate Link

I've been home since Friday, had time today to retrieve Yagi from the RV Storage Yard and work on her switch control swap.

Pretty straightforward, you have to determine which color wires do what on each switch assembly, the old one and the new one.   Then match up the wires correspondingly, test, and when everything works as it should, make hopefully permanent connections and tidy things up.  No, color schemes don't match  up, at all.

Made a couple of mistakes, one cost me a blown fuse as I apparently hooked up wrong wires the first time; and the other was I wired the high beam switch setting to the low beam wire and vice versa.  Not difficult to correct as you might imagine.

For my reference, here's the wire combinations:

First, the headlight beam modes.  Sorry for the blurry picture, but not going to unwrap everything to retake the picture.  

Basically: Top is Yamaha (Y) wiring, bottom is Kawell (K) wiring.  

(Y)Green to (K)White
(Y)Yellow to (K)solid blue
(Y)Blue with black stripe to (k)Blue with white stripe.  

Note, these three wires on the Kawell side were "loose" and not used in the connector it came with, the connector isn't usable with the stock Yamaha connector.


Next come the turn signal and horn wires.  Again, Yamaha wires on the top and Kawell wires on the bottom.


(Y)Black to (K)Aqua (horn)
(Y)Pink to (K)Green (horn)

(Y)Dark Green to (K)Light Blue (Left Turn)
(Y)Brown with White stripe to (K)Gray (Turn signal off)
(Y)Brown to (K)Orange (Right Turn)

Here's what the switch control looks like, mounted on Yagi's handlebar.  Yeah, it's not push to cancel on the turn signal but then again, that didn't last long on the stock version of the control switch.


Friday, August 16, 2019

Reinforcing broken frame bracket, a new rear tire and storage option for Yagi

Follow up to my last post:

The replacement rear tire for Yagi, the 2006 Yamaha TW200 (T-Dub) arrived earlier in the day than I expected to day.

Got the old wheel off with no issues after reviewing the applicable YouTube video by tdubskid.


Note how worn down the T-Dub's rear tire had become.

Bundled the old and new tires into the trunk of the car and off I went to Performance Cycle to get the tires swapped out.  Cost?  $32.

Got the wheel with  the new tire installed with minimal hassles.  There's some slight juggling of components, and sequence is important but again, no big deal.

Then it was time to reinforce the cracked, almost broken bracket onto which the upper mount of the Cyclerack Cargo Rack mounts.

The frame bracket in question.
Not too bad, but time to reinforce it.

Bought some steel strap with 5/16" holes in it.  Cut to fit over the above bracket and modified it to still allow the use of the two smaller screw holes used by the cargo rack mount screws.

 Three bolts with corresponding washers, lock nuts and nut 
secure the steel strap  to the damaged aluminum bracket


I cleaned up the bracing I'd put in place to hold the top mounting bracket in place for the cargo rack, which had broken at the weld before.


Also added metal strapping as reinforcement

OK, so everything went back onto Yagi with only minor adjustments required to accommodate the center Hex Bolt in the middle of the steel strap.  

Gave the cargo rack a tug and it feels pretty solid; the only give is at the above picture's hold down points.

I also decided to remove the soft panniers that I'd been using on Yagi and replace it with a plain old plastic toolbox I had just laying around.  Easy to mount, fits nice, and looks OK.


 Now I have the option to carry one gallon of extra gas either
secured to the back of the top case or:

inside the top case!  Probably more secure this way.
But when I add in air compressor, jump start battery....


The weight of the gas is definitely more forward, and shouldn't cause oscillations that break things again when riding off pavement.

We'll see how this new cargo arrangement works out over the next few outings with Yagi.

Update: The metal strap in the middle broke, replaced it with small portion of same steel strap used as support, we'll see how long that lasts.

Tuesday, August 13, 2019

Broken cargo rack bracket and adding a trailer anchor point

Some minor work on both the T-Dub and hopefully improving its transportation tie down system.

I discovered, at the start of the last camping trip, that the bracket which supports the rear portion of the Cycleracks cargo rack had broken.  I'm thinking mounting the Kolpin gas can mount on the rearmost portion of the cargo rack caused too much flex/stress.  My fault.  Back to the drawing board on carrying extra gas.



Until I can find a welder to hopefully fix the weld shown above; I drilled the holes you see, and used safety wire to hold things together for now.  Also found an old metal strap, for use in the middle hole....so far so good.

Oh, and speaking of welder work needed, the bolts you see in the foreground, mount to an aluminum support that is part of the frame of the motorcycle.  It has a crack, probably from all the weight/stress.  Hopefully, that's an easy welding job.

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As I learn to safely transport the T-Dub on the rack I bolted to the front of the trailer, I've been learning how to best tie it down for transport.  Have lost a couple of straps due to wear point damage, and have tried several ways to hold her upright and steady.

Below pics show latest version of the tie downs.  Any thoughts/feedback would be appreciated if you see something not right.

 Front view: anchor point is attached to rack at right front wheel,
through the middle frame and ends at the spare wheel.


 Rear view, the new anchor point is the silver one 
at bottom of above picture.  It extends the angle
so there's less stress on the blue strap.



The front wheel is kind of held in place by the adjustable clamp that came with the rail, not great at that role so I also used cam lock straps to secure each wheel to the rail as well.