The manual and its service interval checklist only goes up to 30K Kilometers so after consulting Jason of Ural, I treated the 40K interval as the 10K service interval on the checklist.
Found a small hole in the right side compliance fitting, which mates the throttle body to the right cylinder head. It explains some rough running, intermittent, that Scarlett had experienced in the last few rides: (sorry for the blurry pics)
Hole in right side compliance fitting.
I replaced both compliance fittings as per the maintenance checklist. Kept the left side one as it wasn't damaged yet, to use as a "get me home" spare part.
Replaced both spark plugs, the color on both looked good, apparently caramel color with EFI units is not the standard now; per conversations I've had with Randy, the URAL dealer up at Fort Collins.
Port side spark plug
Starboard side spark plug
Valve clearances were checked found the port side intake valve too tight, and the port exhaust valve too loose so adjusted them to .004". Starboard side valves were spot on.
Checked wheel bearing play on all three wheels, no looseness detected. Pulled off the wheels to check the splines:
Sidecar Wheel splines look pretty good!
The pusher wheel splines and hub splines are not looking as good.
They're starting to wear and look "pointy".
All drive shaft splines were lubed as well as all the u-joints. Engine and gearbox oils changed along with oil filter. All three wheels have good amount of brake pad material remaining. All spokes checked/tightened.
Fuel filter was replaced as well, per the checklist.
Checked the steering head bearings using the "elevate the front wheel" and shake at forks midpoint back and forth, checking for movement" method and it all seems good.
Scarlett's ready for more!
Update: 05OCT16:
Swapped the "Splined Flange" from the spare wheel to the pusher wheel today. Ural wheels, since 2014 anyways, now come with a field replaceable splined flange. The component picture below, which mates the wheel hub to the driven hub spline on the final drive.
Splined Flange of the spare wheel above
Note the new looking teeth with the flat top
Worn splined flange on the pusher wheel
The pointy appearance causing this swap work.
Removing the six Allen headed bolts proved slightly difficult as they're mounted with blue Loctite at the factory but eventually, I had them all off without causing damage to the bolts.
You then remove three smaller Allen head screws and pop off the plastic cover on the hub, revealing the below assembly once you gently pry the flange off with a flat tip screwdriver.
Old grease wiped off, clean new grease applied both to the face of the bearing above and the distance bushing (top hat) and thrust washer:
New condition splined flange, now mounted on the pusher wheel's hub.
Did the same cleaning/re-greasing of the spare wheel's hub and put the worn splined flange on it. Once I get the new one I have on order from the Ural dealer, I'll do that swap on the spare wheel.
This should, hopefully, slow down the wear on the driven hub splines, forestalling the day I have to take the Final Drive apart to replace that item!
7 comments:
The service interval checklist only goes up to 30K Kilometers? I wonder why that's so? However, with all the maintenance and TLC you're giving Scarlett the bike is bound to live forever.
SonjaM, you have to kind of wonder don't you? :)
As to all the TLC, forever is quite the goal. I'll be happy if she reaches 100k km. Sadly, that's 60k miles.
Valencia, the 2011 rig, reach 48.5K before she was traded in for Scarlett.
Hmmm, I would've expected the side with the leaky compliance fitting to be running leaner (bright white ceramic insulator). I still haven't gotten around to the headset bearings.
RichardM, I'd rather have the caramel color to go by but apparently, it's EFI and the way it's programmed.
Looks like its time to start shopping for a new hub, that one is on its last legs. Is your spare tire hub looking better?
Follow up thought: Should you tighten the hub more as the teeth wear so to take up any 'new" slack caused by the wear?
CCjon
I've got a replacement splined flange on order via the dealer for the pusher hub, it's a bolt-on. The spare tire hub is new. Not sure how I'd tighten the hub more to take up the slack, please explain.
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