The Spain Wandering - Days 25& 26

Thursday, May 15

Our last stop before we left France and the CESMs was the town of Saint Jean Pied-de-Port.  

The town's role is the beginning of the French Camino for pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostela.

We didn't spend a lot of time there, just checking out the church and bridge mentioned in most Camino journey accounts.

Notre Dame Port

Pilgrims and Tourists

Part of city's walls

We then drove the very twisty N-135 road south.  It took us across the border with Spain while mostly foggy conditions precluded much sightseeing.

We blew past Roncesvalles due to the thick fog conditions, and killed time getting lunch and trying to find an open grocery store.

Lunch was at a "supermarket" we stopped at, it's offerings were barely that of a poorly stocked convenience store but they did feed us.

Finally, we were able to check into our apartment.  Martha scored us great lodgings again.

Comes with a full kitchen and a wood fireplace!

Friday, May 16

After a nice breakfast cooked by Martha, we headed back north to Roncesvalles to check out the beginning of the this Camino route.

First was a look at Roland Pass, where the rearguard forces of King Charlemagne, under the command of Roland were ambushed and killed by Basque forces.  This was in retaliation for Charlemagne's army destroying the Basque capital's walls in what is today modern Pamplona.  More info here: LINK

The chapel was locked, of course, but a peep through the door:

Then, we drove the few miles south to the village of Roncesvalles.

Battle of Roncesvalles Monument 

Roland

That was it for exploring today.  Once the clouds moved in we returned to the apartment and hung out.

Oh, we did see several pilgrims walking along, crossing the N-135 highway to continue on the Camino trail that sort of paralleled the "highway".

The Spain Wandering - Day 24: Two French Pyrenees Destinations

We went to two peak viewing sites today, after an overpriced continental breakfast at the Lourdes Best Western.  (A big comedown from our last hotel in Ainsa)

The drive into the mountains was the usual windy roads, replete with hazardous drivers and blind curves.  Still, we made it to the first location unharmed.

Col du Tourmalet is the highest pass in the French Pyrenees at 2115 meters & a legendary climb on the Tour de France cycling race.  

The sun was out, lighting up the nearby peaks nicely.

Next we made our way back down and then pointed the car at the town of Gavarnie, site of the Gavarnie Cirque. A bowl formation of mountain peaks within the national park.

The weather was overcast when we first got to a viewing point on the Chemin Cirque:

Disappointed with the view and disgruntled at the 8 euro parking charge, we turned back to the car.  We were unhappy with the parking charge, you see, because past the "mandatory" parking, we found cheaper parking closer to the viewing areas.

Anyways, we got back to the main plaza and saw the sun come out from behind the clouds.  Sigh, off we went back towards the viewing areas, this time taking the rockier Chemin de Espagne.

Some quick hustling up the rocky path got us these views:

Heading back down the trail once we lost the sun back behind the clouds; we checked out the L'église de St Jean-Baptiste de Gavarnie.  A small church, part of the French route taking pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela.  

Santiago or St. James 

Heading back to the Gavarnie village, some more sights:

Like seemingly all the French we've had interactions with this trip, even this French cat had a sneering attitude.

Note:  Spanish cats have proven warily curious.  The above cat made low snarling noises.

A small creek flowing rapidly with Spring Melt waters:

Note: if you only have time for one peak viewing attraction, go for Col du Tourmalet instead of Gavarnie.

Spanish meal time rules do not apply in France.  Here they shut down at 1 p.m. through 2:30 p.m. apparently, to include grocery stores!  So, we failed to give money for food at 2-3 places and finally gave up and found lunch at McDonald's in Lourdes.

A couple of views of Lourdes from our hotel's third floor fire escape:  

Chateau-Fort Pyrenees Museum 

Famille Missionnaire de Notre-Dame

( I think)

Yes, fire escape.  Our room has a lovely view of the dirty looking train station. 

We'll not be contributing further to the local economy, leaving tomorrow to return to Spain.  The Spanish may not be noticeably welcoming but feeling actively unwelcome by the French is something else.  

I used to think it was just the Parisian French that had this attitude. I think it's now more widespread. Oh well.

The Spain Wandering - Day 23: Lourdes, France!

We crossed into France this morning after an early departure from Ainsa.  The day started overcast and would have a few hours of sun ending back under overcast and sprinkling skies.

Views soon after emerging from the border tunnel into France:

We found parking near the Lourdes Sanctuary which is comprised of three basilicas: the Rosary Basilica, the Immaculate Conception Basilica and finally the Basilica of St. Pius X.

The crowds weren't too bad.  We checked out the inside of the first two basilicas and the surrounding sights.

The Sanctuary is a major pilgrimage site.  It's waters are believed to heal the sick and disabled.  We saw a lot of folks being wheeled about in their wheel chairs so the hope and faith is evident.

Our first look at the Sanctuary was this large group of pilgrims posing for a group photo.

Luckily, the photo was at the end of their tour of the Sanctuary and they slowly dispersed after the picture was taken. 

A statue of the girl, Bernadette, who experienced visions near the grotto.  The visions, the miracles attributed to the healing waters led to this site becoming the major pilgrimage site it's known as.

A view of the Chateau - Fort Pyrenees Museum, from the upper

basilica's entrance.

The Grotto, there's faucets nearby

Where one can get some of 

the healing water

Outside artwork

Some critics, call Lourdes the Disneyland of the Catholic Church.  They say it has become too commercialized.  

The local souvenir shops specialized and religious icons, figurines and art work of course.

I did find the availability of cheap plastic bottles so you can take home some of the healing water a bit supportive of the critics statements.

Lunch was at the Royal Brasserie...the food was OK, a bit overdone but fast so it worked out.

We next toured the Chateau Fort Pyrenees Museum after it opened from the lunch break.  Pretty cool fort with several local culture displays, nothing exciting so no pics, sorry.

There's lots of stairs to climb.  There's an elevator but it only climbs one floor to the main courtyard.

The views from both Chevalier Esplanades are quite nice and panoramic.

Lourdes Sanctuary 

You can climb up to the top of the main tower, but prepare to be disappointed by the views.  The openings are covered by Plexiglas panels which have been scratched up by graffiti!

A display of marble panels

At the rear of the Fort, there are several models/dioramas of churches, castles and simple farm houses as well.

The fort's main keep.  

A model of the Chateau - Fort:

One last pic of the Fort as we headed towards our hotel:

The Best Western hotel room that we got it's a bit of a come down from our last hotel room in Ainsa, Spain.  I rather doubt that we will find a similar room such as that last one during the remainder of this trip. 

We will be here two nights.